Dog nutrition is one of those topics where everyone has a strong opinion and the internet is full of contradictory advice. I've spent years trying different approaches with my own dogs and reading more research papers than anyone reasonably should about canine digestion. Here's what I've concluded, without the ideology.
The short answer: the best diet for your dog is one that's nutritionally complete, suits their age and health condition, and that you can sustain long-term. There are several ways to achieve this.
Dry Kibble
Kibble is the most popular dog food format worldwide, and for good reason. It's convenient, shelf-stable, cost-effective and — when you choose a quality brand — nutritionally complete. A good kibble will have meat as the first ingredient, a reasonable protein percentage (22–30% for adults) and no excessive use of fillers like corn syrup or artificial preservatives.
Reading the ingredients label
Ingredients are listed by weight before processing. This means "chicken" as a first ingredient is good — but "chicken meal" is actually a more concentrated protein source (water has been removed), so it isn't automatically worse. What to avoid:
- Generic "meat meal" or "animal derivatives" without specifying the animal
- Artificial colours (Red 40, Yellow 5) — no nutritional value, potential sensitivities
- BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin as preservatives — natural alternatives like mixed tocopherols are preferable
- Sugar or corn syrup — unnecessary and linked to obesity and dental issues
Wet Food
Wet food has a higher moisture content (around 75–80% water) compared to dry kibble (around 10%), which makes it beneficial for dogs who don't drink enough water, those with kidney issues or urinary tract problems, or simply fussy eaters who need some encouragement.
It's generally more expensive per calorie than dry food. Many owners feed a combination — kibble as the base with a small amount of wet food mixed in for palatability. This is a perfectly good approach.
Watch out for sodium — some wet foods contain high levels of salt. Always check the nutritional analysis, not just the ingredient list.
Raw (BARF) Diet
Raw feeding — often called BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food) — involves feeding uncooked meat, raw meaty bones, organs, vegetables and eggs. Its advocates argue that it more closely mirrors what dogs ate before domestication.
Potential benefits
- Higher palatability — most dogs are enthusiastic raw feeders
- Improved coat condition reported by many owners
- Smaller, firmer stools (less undigested filler)
- Good for dogs with sensitivities to heavily processed food
Important considerations
- Nutritional balance is complex. Raw diets are frequently deficient in calcium, phosphorus or essential vitamins if not carefully planned. Use a veterinary nutritionist or a reputable pre-made raw food brand.
- Food safety risk. Raw meat carries pathogens (Salmonella, Campylobacter, E. coli) that can affect both your dog and your household. Strict hygiene practices are essential.
- Not suitable for all dogs. Immunocompromised dogs, puppies and senior dogs with certain conditions are generally not recommended for raw diets.
- Bones. Raw meaty bones (like chicken wings or turkey necks) are generally safe. Cooked bones are not — they splinter and are a serious choking and internal puncture hazard.
"I've fed Frost a raw diet for three years and he's thriving. But I also consulted a veterinary nutritionist, source from a reliable butcher, and clean everything with obsessive thoroughness. It's not a casual commitment."
Portion Sizes and Feeding Frequency
How much to feed
Feeding guidelines on packaging are a starting point, not a prescription. They're often on the generous side — manufacturers benefit from you going through food faster. The best measure of whether your dog is eating the right amount is their body condition score.
You should be able to feel (but not clearly see) your dog's ribs. There should be a visible waist when viewed from above. If you can't feel the ribs without pressing hard, or there's no waist visible — reduce portions and increase activity.
Feeding frequency by age
- Puppies 8–12 weeks: 4 meals per day
- Puppies 3–6 months: 3 meals per day
- Puppies 6–12 months: 2 meals per day
- Adult dogs: 2 meals per day (some smaller breeds do fine on one)
- Senior dogs: 2 smaller meals per day to aid digestion
Foods That Are Dangerous for Dogs
This list is not exhaustive, but covers the most important ones every owner should know:
- Chocolate — contains theobromine, which dogs cannot metabolise. Dark chocolate is most dangerous.
- Grapes and raisins — can cause sudden kidney failure. Even small amounts are dangerous and the exact toxic compound is still unknown.
- Xylitol — an artificial sweetener found in sugar-free gum, some peanut butters, and many "diet" foods. Causes a rapid insulin release and can lead to liver failure.
- Onions, garlic, leeks and chives — all alliums damage red blood cells and cause anaemia. Cooked, raw and powdered forms are all dangerous.
- Macadamia nuts — cause weakness, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia.
- Cooked bones — splinter into sharp fragments that can puncture the digestive tract.
- Alcohol — even small quantities cause vomiting, disorientation and can be fatal.
- Avocado — contains persin, which is toxic to dogs in larger quantities.
- Caffeine — coffee, tea, energy drinks. Causes rapid heart rate, seizures, death in high doses.
- Nutmeg — causes hallucinations and seizures in dogs.
Treats and Supplements
Treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog's daily caloric intake. They're excellent for training but easy to overdo. Low-calorie options like plain cooked chicken, cucumber slices or commercial training treats work well without adding significant calories.
Most dogs on a complete, balanced diet do not need supplements. Exceptions include dogs on homemade or raw diets (which often need calcium and omega-3 supplementation), senior dogs who may benefit from joint supplements like glucosamine, and dogs with specific health conditions as directed by a vet.